What’s the rush?

One thing that I have learned here in Istanbul is that Americans generally have a need to GET THINGS DONE. There’s nothing wrong with this, and if I’m being honest here, then yes, I did bring my “TO-DO” notepad from home and yes, there are currently 4 different lists tacked on my desk of things I need to accomplish this week. We are obsessed with scheduling, prioritizing, and setting time aside for things. I, for one, have a lot to do today, just like everyday. And just like everyday, I’m probably going to get it all done.

In Turkey, this is a somewhat absurd idea. Even in classes, people show up and leave as they please, and work gets done as you desire (not as written on the syllabus). One of my roommates showed up the day before classes began instead of a week early like everyone else, and others didn’t get in until Wednesday (classes started Monday). No big deal. There is no rush. The Turks don’t seem to mind lazing around in the afternoon, getting nothing done – a concept that is still quite foreign to me – but lest I forget it, I will continuously be reminded that I’m the weird one.

Excuse me, did you just say Turklish?

It seems that ‘I’m sorry, can you repeat that?’(Affedersiniz, tekrarlayiniz) and ‘No, I’m not Turkish’ (Hayir ben ne Türkum) have quickly become two of my most used phrases here at Boğazici. My Turkish is coming along slowly but surely as I master the basics of a fairly systematic language. Once you get over the fact that the Turkish tend to simply add multiple suffixes to the end of verbs to get the point across instead of form whole sentences, it’s relatively easy. That is, until your instructor throws a word on the board that looks something like this:

Çekoslavakyalilaştiramadiklarimizdan

I am one of 153 exchange students at Boğazici from around the world, and it is a fantastic group of students. For all of us, the next four months promise to be both enlightening and entertaining. My suitemates are great – 2 Turkish and 1 Irish exchange student – and luckily both of the Turkish girls have offered to teach Niamh and I how to cook some of the traditional Turkish/Mediterranean foods. If you have ever seen me attempt to cook or have had the misfortune of eating what I actually have made, you know that this is most likely a disaster waiting to happen, but fingers crossed I may learn something.

The past couple of days have been quite interesting as I settle into classes and develop a routine. It started with a lecture by my Social Anthropology professor on Monday morning, in which I did not understand a word said in the first 15 minutes because the professor spoke completely in Turkish. Uh oh! Eventually, she paused, looked around the room and noticed 3 with what I can only imagine were quite funny looks on our faces – somewhere between shock, confusion, and despair. “Does anyone here not speak Turkish?” She finally thought to ask…3 hands went up from the middle of the group. “Oh, well in that case...” she continued right where she left off, just in English this time. I’m still not really sure what she said those first 15 minutes, but at this point it doesn’t really matter. The next class, History of the Byzantine Empire, promised to be a little better when my professor greeted us and introduced herself in flawless English (she got her PhD from Harvard and spent 10 years in the US), only to go rapidly downhill by announcing for those of us who were exchange students, that the class would be taught in Turklish…and I quote ‘TURKLISH’ What? Evidentially, the lectures will be in English but discussion will flow in and out of Turkish depending on the students’ comfortability with the language and with the materials. Uh Oh again!

Despite what hardships classes and the language barrier threw at me that day, it didn’t really matter 30 minutes later as I sat down for a late lunch. Once again, I have to brag about the fact that Istanbul is absolutely gorgeous and it never ceases to amaze me. I grabbed a Gőzleme from the kantin and went to join some of the other exchange students on the wall overlooking the Bosphorus while we ate. The breeze, the view, and the quickly developing friendship helped to alleviate whatever frustrations I may have had after my first day of classes, and served to relax me before a night of fun – Iftar, nargile (Hookah), çay (tea), and tavla (backgammon) on the waterfront with friends.

Hoş Geldiniz Ramazan! – Welcome Ramadan!

Imagine being awakened in your warm bed at 3:30 a.m. to the incessant pounding of drums and knowing that this is what you will hear for an entire month. For many Muslim believers in Turkey, there is a tradition of hearing the Ramazan davulcusu', the drummers who alert people that it is time for the predawn meal during Ramazan by playing his drum in the streets. Despite setting off car alarms and disturbing many people who do not eat the predawn meal, the drum is a symbol of Ramazan for numerous residents across the Middle East: It tells them the holy month for Muslims is here.

Restaurants are less busy at lunch, and even Turkish tea is relegated to the back burner. The smoke-free air of the coffeehouses reveals they are still full of men, even if the teaspoons have gone silently pious. Some eateries may cover their windows with curtains so as not to distract those fasting by the sight of others eating, and most street vendors close up shop from dawn to dusk.

If at all possible, avoid traveling one hour before sunset, and never try to obtain a cab for at least one hour afterwards. If you are on the street during the hour before sunset, you become a mere obstacle between a fasting Muslim and a meal at home. Traffic is unbearable from 6-7 p.m. every day as people try to get home to break their fast, and if pedestrians weren’t already at the bottom of the food chain when it comes to the right-of-way in the streets, you have suddenly become the greatest scum on earth simply by walking out into the road while cars wait at a red light beside you – if they wait that is. Traffic laws here seem to be mere suggestions, not actual rules to obey, and during Ramazan these “suggestions” are almost laughable and followed less than half the time.

The fast is broken with a massive dinner after sunset prayers called Iftar. The best description I have of Iftar is Thanksgiving..... times 30. Iftars usually start with some soup and dates, followed by enough food to feed an army thrice over. However, unofficially the fast seems to be always broken with a cigarette. Iftars the first few nights of Ramazan are usually spent with families. However, since there are 30 to go through, the latter part of the month is usually shared with friends. They usually last until 9:00 or 10:00PM, after which many people go out on the town to one of the many festivities in Istanbul. It is not uncommon for people to stay out until 3:00 or 4:00 in the morning, only to come back and eat one more time before sunrise prayers.

Ramazn decorations are around just about every corner in Turkey. In lieu of the Christmas window candles are lights in the shape of the crescent moon and star, the symbol of Islam. Christmas carols on the radio are replaced with beautiful recitations of the Quran. TV commercials wish everyone a Ramazan Mubarak or Hoş Geldiniz Ramazan, and are complete with the night background. There are even TV series that are played only during Ramazan (and much more entertaining to me than Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer or Frosty the Snowman, I must admit). While they are not that religious in nature the ones I have watched, they most certainly add to the festive mood around Turkey.

Finally, piety during Ramazan is unparalleled. Much like Easter, everyone attends the mosque more often than normal. Calls to prayer are more eloquent and everyone seems to be in a great, albeit exhausted, mood. During the final 10 days of Ramazan, the time in which the first part of the Quran was revealed to the Prophet Muhammed, the mosques will recite the Quran over the loudspeakers from sunset until sunrise. As a result, please don't be alarmed if a future posting seems overly cranky and hostile, especially towards the 4 mosques around the corner from my room.

Turkish Travels

From the magnificent palaces, mosques, and bazaars of Istanbul, to the incredible geological formations and underground cities of Cappadocia, to the rich religious and archaeological history of Ephesus, Turkey is undoubtedly a country with something to offer travelers of all interests, a country that is undoubtedly a genuine crossroads of civilizations. I have spent the past 8 days traveling throughout this amazing country and seeing some of the most amazing sights.

We flew from Istanbul to Izmir Sunday morning and from there rented a car and drove to Selçuk. Here, we wandered through the archaeological museum which houses a large number of the finds from nearby Ephesus, enjoyed tost and çay outside in the park, visited Isabey Camii (Christ Mosque) and explored the ruins of the Basilica of Saint John. That evening, we drove up into the mountains to stay in Sirince, a small town perched upon the hillside. Here, the streets are paved with cobblestones, cars are parked in the otopark at the foot of the towns and you climb up to your house, and the streets are filled with vendors selling their wares while Turkish music and amazing aromas dance through the air until long after the sun has set. As picturesque as Sirince was, all good things must come to an end. For us, this was a nosebleed just before breakfast Monday morning. When it wouldn’t stop on its own, Mehmet decided he should probably go to the hospital in Selcuk and get it looked at. So 20 minutes later, we were packed, checked out and on our way down the mountain for my first glimpse of a hospital here in Turkey. Although I know that the little clinic in town shouldn’t be compared to a more modern institute in cities like Ankara or Istanbul, I can’t help but think that I do not want to find myself in a hospital here in Turkey anytime in the next few months.

This was followed by a trip to Ephesus, one of the most well preserved ancient Roman civilizations and one of the best kept. While admittedly I knew very little about this city going into this trip, I was amazed to learn that Ephesus was one of the most important cities of ancient times- during Greek and Roman times it served as the most important city to those empires on the Asian continent. To that end, it was a cultural capital, had one of the largest populations and the third largest library in the world. It had seen the original roots of Amazon warriors, sheltered Greek mythology, gave rise to Roman rule and Christianity- John the Baptist spread the gospel here and the Virgin Mary is reputed to have lived nearby- and finally was a vital city under later Muslim rule. The history of Turkey continues to amaze and it truly is one of the countries with the greatest amount of historical twists, turns and preservation that one could ever lay eyes on, a true gem to the world today.





After Aunt Diane and I visited Ephesus, we met up with Mehmet and Resa for lunch and a quick trip to the Seven Sleepers farther up into the mountains. As the legend goes, during the persecutions of the Roman emperor Decius (around 250 AD), seven young men were accused of Christianity. They were given time to give up their faith before being killed, instead they gave up their worldly goods to the poor, and retired to a nearby mountain to pray, where they fell asleep. The emperor, deciding that their attitudes towards Christianity and Paganism had not changed, ordered the mouth of the cave where they slept to be sealed. Almost 150 years later, the cave was unsealed and the sleepers were awakened thinking they had only slept for a day. One of the sleepers returned to Ephesus and is astounded to find buildings with crosses attached and Christianity openly practiced throughout the city.

Following our visit to the hillside where the sleepers slept, we kept going up the mountain to the house of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Though small and secluded, people travel from all over the world to the place where it is believed that Mary moved to after the crucifixion and later died. The stone house is not much beyond a small alter and prayer room, but it is a miracle it is still standing today. A few years back, fire was set to the trees on the mountain that houses this serene spot. These flames traveled up the side of the mountain wiping out all the vegetation up to the crest before being put out. Mary’s house is just below the crest on the opposite side of the mountain and not a single tree surrounding it was touched. It is absolutely amazing considering how much forest was wiped out in the process. After this, we hopped in the car for the hour drive back to Izmir to grab some coffee and pastry and wait for our flight to Ankara.

We arrived in Ankara on Tuesday night, and all plans to visit museums and the castle/citadel the next 2 days were cast aside for relaxation in Resa and Mehmet’s garden and a tour of ODTU, the university where he teaches. After days of busy sightseeing and late nights of catching up with each other, we were all exhausted and opted to lie low and put our feet up.

We spent 2 days in central Turkey, in an area called Cappadocıa, famous for its strange caves and geological formations that extend across the valleys creating a landscape far more captivating that of the Grand Canyon. Deep layers of volcanic ash settled into easily carved Tufa, which has offered shelter to people creating cave homes from prehistoric times, including whole underground cities. Added bonus features include pillars, outcroppings, towers and caves in the volcanic tuffa which is light enough to be eroded or carved easily. Early Christians lived in these caves, to escape persecution, and local folk created underground villages to escape violence and war over the centuries, first by Romans and then by Muslims. The heart of this area is the little tourist town of Göreme, where in recent years numerous restaurants, bars, and "cave hotels" have been carved into the rock.





The attempted bombing in Ankara by Kurdish rebels on Wednesday has had relatively low impact on the tourists here. The only effect that I've seen is tighter security. As we arrived at the entrance to the Kayseri airport for Aunt Diane and I to fly back to Istanbul, were sternly greeted by policemen checking each car inside and out with mirrors and metal detectors. Cars are put into park, passengers step out of the way, and suitcases are removed from the trunk so that everything can be searched before a quick nod and we’re all packed back in to go park the car to unload for real this time.

Despite all of my adventures so far this trip, I’ve got many more ahead of me in the next few months. Next up, moving into the dorm and getting to know the campus of Bogazici University!

Frustration, Ferries, and First Thoughts

(Written Thursday Sept. 6, 2007)

Exactly on time, the plane touched down on Turkish soil and I headed off, claimed my bag, breezed through customs and met Resa and Mehmet – friends from Ankara – right? Wrong…an hour late, the plane landed, and an hour after that I was filling out paperwork so that my bag can find me whenever it decides to make it to Turkey. Then I was off to explore my new home for the next few months.

Turkey is a perfect introduction to the Middle East and from the moment I arrived in Istanbul, I could see both the European and Middle Eastern influences on the city. As the entrance to the Middle East, Istanbul – which was at one time Constantinople – is considered by many to be the greatest city in the world. By many measures, the city is half Asian/Middle Eastern and half European. Geographically, the city itself is situated on two continents – separated by the Bosphorus Strait.

My first experience with Istanbul outside the airport was with the traffic. Turkish traffic exhibits all of the usual Middle Eastern signs: drivers ignore traffic lights, lane markings seem to only be painted on the roads for decoration, and any living pedestrian will tell you that cars have the right-of-way (the fact is, that the right of way goes to the biggest and heaviest vehicle on the road). The ride from the airport to my hotel can take anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour an a half depending on the day; when discussing traffic and driving time, the most important question is ‘is it Friday?’ because on Fridays the number of cars in town literally quadruples for some unknown reason.

The rest of the afternoon and early evening was spent on a ferry as we cruised along the Bosphorus, and I got my first real sight of the entirety of Istanbul. As the ferry gently rocked and the city unfolded before me, it finally dawned on me that I was here. With the smell of salt water and a view of the minarets rising out of the skyline I couldn’t help but smile. We docked near a nice little restaurant where we ate and laughed our way through an hour-and-a-half dinner, sampling different Mediterranean and Turkish dishes. Dinner was followed by a ferry ride back down the bosphorus as the sun started to set, and a quick stop in the spice market for some Apple Tea and amazing aromas to kill time before a performance by the Whirling Dervishes.



In generosity and helping others, be like a river
In compassion and grace, be like the sun
In concealing others faults, be like the night
In anger and fury, be like the dead
In modesty and humility, be like the earth
In tolerance, be like the sea
Either exist as you are
Or be as you look.
- Mevlana

As I stepped out of the taxi at my hotel that evening, the call to prayer serenely echoed across the skyline filled with minarets. For Muslims, it announced the late-evening time to pray. However, for me, it served as a reminder that my home for the next few months would be full of differences from my normal life; trying to navigate unsigned streets with an inadequate guidebook, negotiating prices with street vendors for food, clothes, and souvenirs, and asking directions in a language I did not speak.

Throughout the evening, I noticed many bars and several convenience stores that sold beer. In Istanbul – and practically every place in Turkey – beer and alcohol were available almost everywhere. Nowhere else is this more evident than Istiklal Cadessi, a long cobblestone street filled with clubs, smoky pubs, discos, and swanky rooftop bars. This is the place where Turks come to party.

My first thought was that this should seem normal for a big city. To me, this should seem normal for a big city. Then I remembered that I was in a country where 97% of the population considers themselves Muslim, and Islam forbids the consumption of alcohol. This dichotomy between the sound of silence following the muezzin and the smell of smoke and alcohol all along the streets was somewhat jarring. And for me, it epitomizes the intentional secularism of Turkey in a way that perhaps goes even further than what some European nations would be comfortable with.

Although there are many people who choose to be religiously conservative, there are also many people who do not consider themselves practicing Muslims. But, in Turkey, most people tend not to pry into others’ religious practices or judge others harshly for what they decide to do. Religion nowadays, for most of the people, is a private matter – between the believer and his or her god. This is a country with a deep Islamic history topped with a unique flavor of European secularism.

But the Turks don't see this as two opposing forces. Turks are a proud people, and they see the secularism, the Ottoman-style mosques, and their hospitality as distinctly Turkish. There is no contradiction when on a weekend, the most happening clubs are closing up just as the morning call to prayer begins to sound. Turks, some who are of Kurdish or Arab origins, see themselves as distinctly Turkish, and are proud of the liberalism and tolerance that allows people of different backgrounds and beliefs to integrate into Turkish society.

The Great Escape

So this it before I get to Istanbul and figure out internet connection (which if you know me, might be Christmas...or next Wednesday...either or). I leave in less than 24 hours and I am going to start packing in the next few hours...(nervously glances around the room)...I'm totally kidding. My ONE suitcase is packed and has been sitting on the floor for five days. I don't really know what's in it and I kind of don't really care at this point. Try to imagine packing what you'd need for FOUR AND A HALF MONTHS into one bag that you KNOW is going to be lost by Turkish Air (let's be real here).

Anywho, I fly to Chicago then onto Istanbul, if everything goes according to schedule (again, if you know me, that NEVER happens). I already have some refined plane reading (Dostoyevsky’s Brothers Karamazov) and some healthy treats (Sour Patch Kids and Cheese-Its) to last me the two days of flying.

This past week has been a whirlwind of attempting to pack my life and my house into a 55-pound suitcase, saying goodbye to friends and family until mid-January, and catching up on the somewhat tumultuous political situation that is the current Turkish Government. I’m going to miss all of you crazy Americans as I travel throughout Northern Africa, Europe, and the Middle East for the next semester.

I’ll be traveling throughout Turkey for the next 10 days, so it’s doubtful that you’ll hear from me prior to next weekend. But when I do get back to internet I promise stories and pictures from Ephesus, Cappadocia, Ankara, Istanbul and more.

However the voyage goes, wish me luck! I'll make sure to update this blog as I go along to keep you guys informed on all my little adventures!